New Fabrics for Yoga Bags

Just received from fabricworm a new shipment of earthy-toned fabrics from the Parson Gray Curious Nature line by David Butler. The 100% cotton fabrics include:

Starcomb Silver
French Quarter Sand
Dimitri Vines Royalty
Starcomb Stones
Empire Mark Forest
Coral Reef Pines
Dimitri Vines Pines
Cocoons Brush

Looking forward to mixing and matching these patterns to make the new, larger yoga mat bag.

New Yoga Bag Design

By request, I added some trim, D-rings and another pocket to the yoga bag design.  I used three coordinating materials to add a strip on the strap with a D-ring for keys or a water bottle. 

The lining became a trim on the upper opening and on the big pocket.

Another pocket was added below the shortened, middle pocket. These pockets are good for cell phone, sunglasses or wallet.  There is a second D-ring at the top edge of one of the long pockets where a water bottle can be inserted.

This was the last yoga bag that was cut at 19 inches.  Now I'll be making bags 23 inches around for thicker, premium grade Manduka or Jade yoga mats.  And I'm going to use earthier tones from the Parson Gray Curious Nature fabric line by David Butler, Amy's husband.

Yoga Bags at Yoga Studio

Sara sent photos of the yoga bags displayed at the yoga studio in Woodbridge.  Nice!

Courtney!

Spring Floral Arrangement in a Jar

We met with Leah O'Hearn of It's So Ranunculus Flower Shoppe to make spring arrangements last night.  We curled the variegated leaf (similar to a ti leaf or the leaf of a Chinese Evergreen houseplant) to insert inside the glass jar to hide the stems.  With a base of salal leaves collaring the jar, we inserted wax flowers (pink), chartreuse mums, purple statice (the shorter, fuller kind), and limoneum (light purple flower).  The focus flowers were pink Gerbera daisies and a yellow bud that looked like freesia. With a bow of raffia, we're set for spring!

The Blue and Brown Quilt Joins Together

The first four rows are sewn together.  You can see the pattern easily in the brown rectangles and bird print.  I sewed row 1 and row 2 together and then row 3 and 4. The next step was to sew the two sets of two rows together.  It is easier to sew together row 2 (already sewn to row 1) and row 3 (already sewn to row 4) as there will be less fabric to handle as the quilt goes through the machine.

Pin row 5 and 6 (already sewn together) to rows 7, 8 and 9 (sewn together).  Remember to sew flat sides together (bottom is flipped) and check the labels and pattern to avoid using that seam ripper!

Almost done! You will need to sew all around the edge of the quilt. I double back over every seam to ensure that the quilt edges stay together even with a dog or kids in the house!  Also make sure that seams that are hidden below remain separated and flat as you go over them.

Now it's time to clip every edge, including the outside edges.  Make the clips about 1/4 to 1/2 inch apart depending on the look you want. For the baby quilts with no batting, 1/4 inch works. For this quilt with medium thick batting, clipping every 1/2 inch or a little closer will be preferable.  Clip almost to the seam, but do not clip through the seam.  The special rag quilt clippers shown are invaluable.  The blades are short and sharp! Cut close to each seam for a fluffier, more upright look.

One more hint for thread clippings:  a sheet from a lint roller to collect those loose "tails" cut off.

In sewing each row, clip tails with small scissors, and put the thread tails on the lint remover sheet. When you're done, just throw the sheet away and start each sewing session with a new one.

Rag Quilt Comes Together

I had some time this afternoon to start the blue and brown quilt for Kathy.  After sandwiching all the batting between matching rectangles of fabric, I laid out the pattern on the bed.  It's a queen mattress so nine rows cover the top.  The pattern from the book is for a baby quilt, but I make it an extra long lap throw to cover the toes of a tall, adult person!

The design includes block A of three fabrics and block B of three fabrics

separated by sashes of three different fabrics.

Block A (sideways) has a blue medallion print, a solid brown and a blue swirls pattern.

Block B (sideways) has a bird print, a tie-dye aqua, and a lighter blue medallion print.

I pick up each row of the design and pile up the blocks and sashes in order (and flipped upside down) with a label separating each row. Then when I sew, I have some idea where I am in the pattern, design and progress of the quilt. I also use the labels later to identify the rows for sewing together.

Here are all the rows (now flipped over to start with row 1) in the bin and the leftovers.

My sewing space is ready to go. It's not large, just a spot in the bedroom, but it's cozy.

Block A has been sewn together with 1/2 inch seams and connected to a sash.

Block A and block B connected by a sash.

Row 1 is all done. Notice the label is now pinned to the row so I can sew them together in the right order, maintaining the pattern and design.  The pattern for row 1 is Block A, sash, Block B, sash, Block A, sash, Block B. All rectangles are 4 X 10 inches.

Row 2 is done.  Notice the pattern begins and ends with 2 sashes, then Block A,

a single sash, Block B, another sash and Block A.

Row 1 and 2 sewn together.

The reverse side (flipped, top is now on right side).

Time: 3 hours.

Seven more rows to go! About an hour per row.

Kathy's Rag Quilt

I was able to cut out the rectangles and the batting for the new rag quilt I'm making.  About 300 total!

Now for a design!